Showing posts with label Llanishen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Llanishen. Show all posts

Friday, October 29, 2010

Mountain llan of the Abbot-Saint Isanus,Isan at Llanishen and St Denis of Paris and the Lost Chapel


Last week, driving up in the Autumn sunshine, on the road to St Arvans to Devauden, I called at Llanishen, where I left the road, drove slightly down the hill and to the church at the side of the road. The autumn leaves fell on each side,but the view was breathtaking, and unchanged from when the blessed Abbot St Isan toiled here for the Kingdom.

 Whilst the church building looks a bit unloved, it has been well cared for and immediately you can see the llan area, all around it. The llan for the early British Church was the ‘circle of heaven’, cleared, prayed over, fasted over for forty days and nights and the church built as its beating heart at the centre. The boundary was hedged or built in stone and the abbot (as he was known) and his twelve monks would toil in the fields and attend the Opus Dei and Mass during the day in the Church according to ancient rights. Penitentials were fierce in the monks desire for holiness. The Mass and daily Church devotions were all in Latin and the families of the ecclesial community lived all around. Some llans were ‘con-hospitae’ with both monks and nuns living and taking part in the liturgical life of the community.

 So it was for St Isan at Llanishen. . In A.D. 535 two monks set out eastwards from the monastery of Llan-Illtyd Fawr, aiming to establish new settlements, or "llans", in the wild terrain below Caerphilly mountain. One of these monks, Isan, established his "llan" on the present-day site of the Oval Park, an ideal location offering a ready fresh-water supply at a natural spring and the nearby Nant Fawr stream. He seems to have later departed to the ancient church he had heard about in Gwent, near the Severn,dating from Roman times, reputed to have had a relic of the martyred French Saint Denis. Unlike most of the early Cambro-British saints, we cannot trace his parentage as there simply is not enough information.

 However we are told he was a Saint or a monk of Bangor Illtyd, or Llan-illtyd Mawr-now Llantwit Major. Baring Gould and Fisher maintain he is mentioned in the Life of St Illtyd, and it appears Abbot Isan was the holy man, who with another abbot visited St Illtyd just before his death.

  Llanishen in Glamorgan-was probably his first llan. The Liber Landavensis or ‘Book of Llandaff’ refers to him as ‘Lann Ysan’ and also’ Llan Nissien’. The Normans made of it, the holy martyr of St Denis, patron of Paris, on whose martyred blood the city was grounded. This was from the savage era of persecutions from Rome in which St Maurice also died-also similarly ancient, since they could find no details of St Isan immediately. They rededicated many churches, yet the saintly abbot Isan, was, nevertheless the founder. In the Tintern Charter, to which it later belonged, it was referred to as ‘The Church of Dionyus (Dennis) of Lanissan. The Glamorgan Charter calls it ‘CAPELLA DI SANCTI DIONYSII’ as in the Tewkesbury Charter of 1180 AD. This was sixty years after the canonisation of St David for his defence of Catholic teaching against the Pelagians at Llandewi. It is said there are remains of a still earlier church in the parish called CAPEL DENIS which may even indicate there was a church here (like that at Tredunnock) in Roman times, commemorating a much loved martyr in a time of terrible persecution, which also saw the holy Caerleon Martyrs shedding their blood for the faith. The Feast Day of St Denis (whom I believe is carved in stone above ) is OCTOBER 9th as he is Apostle and Patron of France.


Abbot Isan, who later built his ‘llan’ around this site lived and toiled there. His own Feast Day (although not entered in the Welsh Church Calendar) is December 16th, the day of his death in the sixth or seventh century, which would have made him contemporary with St Derfel.


Inside the church, there were two carved heads at the base of the chancel arch. One appears to be the Blessed Virgin and one that, no doubt of the royal St Denis. There are some wonderful stained glass windows ,one dominating the chancel area, (seen above) with a crucifixion scene in the centre. Saint David is also shown in another window, in bright vivid colours (at Llandewi Brefi with the white dove on his shoulder) The church has been restored in the nineteenth century and a great deal renewed, from Norman times. Again the beauty of the stained glass windows contrasted with the rather dull white and brown interior, with a dark oak pulpit, chairs and crucifix. The rood screen had disappeared. 

The font also appeared to be nineteenth century, The seating was pews in dark brown, and in general the interior was very plain but the stained glass window dominated the whole building. There was little left of the pre-Reformation period, but you had to look over the whole valley from this wonderful site and see the face of God’s Creation as it would have appeared to the British Christians to the Early Romano-British saints and also those of Abbot Isan’s time. This truly was an island of heaven.

Beata es Virgo Maria, Dei genitrix.
The nave without the colour of the chancel area looks a bit dark, and sorry about the lack of sharpness, but it was very dark indeed .

 Sanctus Dionysius  .Ora pro nobis

Sanctus Isanus.Ora pro nobis. Amen



Friday, October 16, 2009

TRELLECK, GRANGE of TINTERN ABBEY, Church of St Margaret of Antioch,

The blessed saint, Margaret of Antioch patron of Childbirth, shown during her imprisonment before her execution for being a Christian and a consecrated Virgin.St Margaret was a popular Saint in the Middle Ages, but there seems little documented evidence, except tradition.








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Trellech Grange

Trellech Grange 9Ecclesia Mainuon, Ecclesia
Trylec, Lann Mainuon or Villa Guicon)

The fact that this name (Villa Guicon (Gwykon?Gwion?) seems to be Latin, may indicate, that like a lot of early settlements, it was based around a Roman villa. Possibly originally a local chieftain became a Christian, a room in the house being used as a meeting room, and then, during the Age of the Saints, became a monastery by the efforts of the holy priest Meinion.We need to take his name on trust. It seems to be the only thing we definitely know, because the settlement was named after him.

This settlement, still surrounded by farm buildings , one or two housing the monks who came to administrate here, is on high ground, and at the centre of one of the most fertile hundreds of land in Wales, that is the Hundred of Raglan. Everywhere are farm buildings and fields, sheep and cattle, and it seems in its heyday at Victorian times, it fed the whole of Tintern Abbey and the ancillary workers.

St Meinion

In later times it was a Grange on the site of the original monastery founded around 755 (although possibly even earlier) by a holy priest called Meinion. Meinion may have been one of the priests educated at the college at Caerwent ,or Michaelstone y Fedw (established in Roman times) who had come to this beautiful area to found a Llan.Of course, he may not have been a priest of course, but like St Gwynlliw of Newport, a chieftain who had turned to God . He was clearly well known as there is a mention of ‘Meinion’s Fields’ at Bedwellty and it is probable that he was a priest and an itinerant preacher, possibly even one of the Brycheiniog family come to do a Green Martyrdom and end his days in the little patch of heaven he had created,devoting himself to the praise and service of God..

The brushwood on the site would have been cleared. Then the all important wall built to divide the space and holy ground of heaven inside the monastery and the World outside the monastery and the ground sanctified by 40 days of fasting and constant prayer.

Finally the church would have been built and then the surrounding huts. It seems plain that there was a farm here, or that farming was begun here by the fledgeling community. Life no doubt continued in a quiet pastoral way for two centuries or so until the Saxon raids. There is a stream for water, water springs and a mill further down the valley (a short drive) where the Churchwarden low lives.

When the Normans came, the Grange was first selected as a grange for the Benedictine monks at Chepstow, who had the responsibility of appointing a priest , or sending one of their own who had been suitably qualified. For many years the monks of Chepstow had sway, being directed and empowered by William FitzOsbern. FitzOsbern’s time in Gwent was brief and he died in a battle in France.He was a steward of a more powerful family, but indispensable to William the Conqueror, who awarded him Chepstow and the means to build a castle to keep out the Welsh, and the Priory, who did his administration.

FitzOsbern and his family also helped the monks of Tintern to build the abbey. The Cistercian monks, when they came to Trellech (a short distance away 4 miles) were excellent farmers part of whose charism was, they did not mind hard physical work. These followers of Bernard of Clairvaux knew a great deal of food would be required for the monks now living at the abbey, and in fact, Trellech Grange produced most of the food for Tintern Abbey until Henry VIII took it from them.

Richard , Earl of Pembroke gives the Settlement to Tintern Abbey

It was, in fact, Richard Earl of Pembroke, the powerful patron of Tintern Abbey who granted the Welsh chapel and the farmlands to the Abbey. They transformed the lands into one of their model farms or granges and the chapel they built here, was probably a rebuild of the Celtic site. Perhaps it was first a timber building if the original may have been mud and wattle, but when in 1224 William Marshall, the new Earl of Pembroken gave the monks ‘all things needful for the abbey and grange of Trellech, and stone for building, in the Forest of Wentwood’, the chapel was undoubtedly refashioned in stone- as was growing practice of the Cistercian site at the time. It can then be confidently assumed that the basic fabric of the church dates from the early 13th century.The Pembroke family were all interred in the abbey with monuments which have disappeared.

Original dedication to St Margaret of Antioch

According to Professor David Williams offer such clues that there are in the records show the church to have been dedicated to St Margaret. St Margaret was a huge source of devotion back in the Middle Ages, and while documented historical evidence in the form of documents is thin, but St Margaret also had a shrine at the church in Caerwent, to which many people came on pilgrimage (from the notes in the ‘Lives of the Cambro British saints) A wall painting like the one above would commonly have appeared on the wall. Margaret (in Pisidia), virgin and martyr, is celebrated by the Roman Catholic and Anglican Churches on July 20 and July 17 in the Eastern Church.; Lack of written documentation meant she was declared apocryphal by Pope Gelasius I in 494, but devotion to her revived in the West with the Crusades and miracles occurred. She was reputed to have promised very powerful indulgences to those who wrote or read her life, or invoked her intercession; and these helped the spread of devotion to her.]

According to the ‘Golden Legend’, she was a native of Antioch, daughter of a pagan priest named Aedesius. She was scorned by her father for her Catholic Christian faith, and lived in the country with a foster-mother keeping sheep. Olybrius, the praeses orientis, offered her marriage at the price of her renunciation of Christianity. Upon her refusal, she was cruelly tortured, during which various miraculous incidents occurred.She bore her torture and died to this world bravely to be taken up to the martyrs. She is the patron saint of Childbirth by popular acclaim.

Unfortunately these were embroidered and more made up! She was martyred in 304 AD. St Margaret was the patron saint of pregnant women and greatly loved by women in childbirth. There were many Margaret dedications as Childbirth was a dangerous affair in the middle ages. She is also the patron of dying people and of people who have kidney problems, peasants, exiles and falsely accused people. So she had a great deal of scope to produce her miracles. The dedication to St Margaret would have reflected the New Norman order at the 1130’s the Norman saint having indicated this. There would have been an wall painting of St Christopher too, the saint who carried Christ in his arms. Legend dictated who ever looked at an image of him whislst dying would be granted eternal life.

Animal Husbandry and Export

The monks took their produce down to Tintern. Other monks tended the sheep and spare produce which would keep. Like sheep were always herded down to Sudbury near Chepstow and here they set sail for Bristol and exported both the sheep, but especially the wool to the West Country and also further afield.

Even working in the field along side the labourers, at given times the bell would ring as it does in many Catholic areas today 12 noon the Angelus bell, during which the monks would recall the message of the Incarnation by an angel. Bell at 3 for nones, a short 15 minute series of prayers and psalms, 6pm Vespers or Evening prayers (called ‘Evensong’ its old name by Anglicans) and at 9pm Compline, when the monks would say their night prayers, finishing with the ‘Salve Regina’.Then they would be up for Mattins at 2am and again at 6 for Lauds, 8 for Mass and 9 for Prime. The Angelus would be followed by prayers and psalms called the ‘Terce’. The sounding of the church bell once to signal to all those in the field that the hour had come, meant they all turned towards the church at that time, and prayed the same prayers. The bell was a signal from heaven. It also rang at the moment of consecration during the Mass, and rang three times at 12 and six. This practice would have continued at Trellech Grange, keeping the monks and lay brothers and sisters in unity with their brothers at Tintern Abbey.___________________________________________________________






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When Henry VIII took the church lands and sold them off at knockdown prices, often to the very agents he sent in to do the deed, the chapel became a parish church for the small farming area. Indeed by 1600 the Earls of Pembroke had once again become the patrons of the land around Trellech, perhaps part of their reward for not objecting to the ruination of what had been wonderful buildings at Tintern.No doubt one of the monks remained as parson at Trellech, after which the now Anglican diocese appointed vicars up to the present day. I am most grateful to the Vicar of Llanishen, the Reverend Derek Owen for making it possible for me to look around the beautiful chapel and Mrs Gwen Owen, who came out on a rainy day to take me round. It was very kind of them.

On the day I arrived, the church had just been brightly decked out for the Harvest Festival,the previous weekend and whilst some of the displays were not as fresh as on the previous Sunday, the effect was obvious. Coloured leaves and flowers were everywhere. The white font inside the church door was lively with flowers, and I was told children were beginning to return to the village, although incomers coming in and out meant there was a certain amount of instability. Because of its historic nature (it is the only Cistercian religious building of that mediaeval period still in use in Wales)CADW have insisted on expensive and authentic repairs, costing £60,000, impossible for the local community to find as they are not being allowed to carry out the work themselves. The deep suited instability of the community and lack of interest in local affairs is at the root of this, plus lottery funding all going to the Olympic Games. In the nineteenth century,(1848) the Duke of Beaufort owned all 1805 acres of Trellech Grange. There was stone quarrying there (indeed the church and local surrounding farm buildings seem to be made of the same stone) and possibly the stone for the abbey came from here.The Glebe alone was of 85 acres. Probably , as it was his church, and he appointed the vicars, he also carried out some renovations at this time.

The Stained Glass Window

This, depicting the crucified Christ, and the dead soldier was designed by Queen Mary and chosen to commemorate the two local men who died in the Great War, John Edward Davies and Ralph Mortimer Bagley.

Trelleck Grange can be accessed by taking the Trellech Road to Llanishen and then taking a LEFT turn before driving up the hill on the other side. Curiously, the signpost to Trelleck Grange can only be observed driving the other way(!) so turn left at the small road after the white cottages. On the Left Hand Side.